Q. I brought my 2019 BMW X5 in for service for a low oil pressure warning message. Here is the summary. Is this an accurate estimate? Hooked up with charger and found fault codes for oil pump pressure too low (1C2002) and oil pressure control too low (1C0102). After performing a function test on oil pump, found that pump is faulty. Oil pump needs to be replaced together with oil quantity control valve. The total estimate is $9600 and the shop charges $219 per hour labor. Does it make sense to even repair the car?
A. The technician notes are handy, but it seems as if the shop should have provided you with an itemized estimate. The oil pump is $795 and just to replace the pump is 14 hours labor. If at the same time the tech replaces the timing chains, this will add another 15 hours labor. Depending on the extent of service required the estimate could be accurate. Although at this point, I would ask for an itemized estimate to see exactly what work is to be performed. The car with the needed repairs is not worth much. A proper running X5 is worth $28-$32,000, so repairing the car would make sense.
Q. I recently had to replace my battery in my 2010 Buick. My neighbor helped me and did something I had never seen before. Rather than using a memory saver or risk losing radio codes and presets, he had the car running while replacing the battery. He said this is how he was taught years ago. Perhaps this can help other DIY’ers.
A. That method of changing the battery with the engine running in years past did two things. It would retain the vehicle memory and if the car stalled with the battery disconnected you knew the charging system was not operating correctly. But today with more sophisticated electronics the chance of damaging the alternator, computers and other modules is certainly possible. This is not the recommended procedure.
Q. A am considering purchasing the Mazda CX-30 and was wondering if you ever test drove this car? I read some things about nice handling and fun to drive. I would also like to get it without low-profile tires. I am not a fan with the hard ride. What are your thoughts?
A. The Mazda CX-30 is a fun little car, handles well, feels nimble and sporty. Fuel economy could be better, the rear seat is tight for adults and the infotainment system is a little frustrating. Historically reliability has been quite good with nearly all Mazda models. I believe that Mazda quality is better than most since as a company they tend to make calculated and slow changes, rather than reinventing something new each year. I too would skip the low-profile tires not just for the ride, but they are more susceptible to pothole damage of our less than perfect roads.
Q. I have a 2013 Mercedes Benz ML-350. The Blind Side Indicator is more often unavailable than available. The new car dealer I use occasionally wanted over $3,000 to repair. Sometimes it is available on startup, sometimes not. Often it will fail during a drive. Is it an electronic control or sensor issue? Is there an alternative such as isolation/replacement of a defective part?
A. No easy answer on this, the system is intertwined with the collision warning sensor, so it has many parts, and they are all connected through a CAN (computer network). The first thing that needs to be performed is a scan of all the modules and see if there is a code (this will not show up as a check engine light). It could be anything from a faulty sensor in the bumper to a front collision sensor that is misaligned due to a slight parking lot bump with another car. You need to start with the module scan first. There is a dozen interconnected modules. The problem is the issue may not be anything that makes sense. Recently I was looking at a VW. The car had several warnings on the dash, one was for the passenger side airbag. The issue was the antilock brake sensor was faulty. When this happened, it pulled down communications with the CAN. Always best to diagnose first and not guess.
Q. Our 2019 VW Beetle is developing a whistling sound at highway speeds. We do not know which door / window is the culprit. Before I bring it to the dealer’s attention on my next visit, I would much rather hear possible cause from you first, thus avoiding possible runaround from dealership.
A. There is no known or common cause of a wind noise on this model. So, some diagnosis is necessary, and you could try to do it yourself. Start the car and with the heater fan set to high close all the doors and windows. Now take a spray bottle of very sudsy soapy water and spray around the doors, windows, windshield and look for small bubbles. Find the bubbles find the leak. If it has a sunroof look at that too. I have had good luck using this method.
